If you're looking for a spot that hasn't been completely stripped of its soul by over-tourism yet, the albanian riviera should be at the very top of your list. I remember the first time I wound my way down the Llogara Pass, looking out the window as the mountains literally dropped off into the deep blue of the Ionian Sea. It's one of those rare places where you can still find a secluded cove without having to pay fifty Euros for a sunbed, though that's changing fast, so you might want to get there sooner rather than later.
The stretch of coastline we're talking about officially starts around the city of Vlorë and snakes its way down to Sarandë, right near the Greek border. It isn't just one long beach; it's a rugged, dramatic collection of tiny villages, pebbly bays, and some of the clearest water I've ever seen. It's got this weird, wonderful mix of old-school Mediterranean charm and a "wild west" vibe where half-finished hotels sit next to 500-year-old olive groves.
The white-knuckle drive down
You can't really talk about visiting this area without mentioning the drive. Most people fly into Tirana and rent a car, which is definitely the way to go if you want any kind of freedom. Once you leave the flatlands and start climbing into the Ceraunian Mountains, things get interesting. The Llogara Pass is the gateway to the albanian riviera, and it's both terrifying and beautiful.
You're driving on these hairpin turns with sheer drops on one side, but the view of the sea from 1,000 meters up is enough to make you pull over every five minutes for a photo. There are usually some local guys selling mountain honey and mountain tea (çaj mali) at the viewpoints. Buy some—it's the real deal. Once you descend from the clouds, you're officially on the coast, and the air starts smelling like salt and wild oregano.
Finding your home base
Choosing where to stay is usually the hardest part because every village has a different "flavor." If you want something a bit more upscale and trendy, Dhërmi is usually the go-to. It's got these beautiful white-stone houses tucked into the hillside and some really cool beach clubs that wouldn't look out of place in Mykonos, but at a fraction of the price. The water here is deep and incredibly blue, though the "sand" is actually small white pebbles, so definitely bring some cheap water shoes unless you want to do the "hot coal" walk every time you go for a swim.
A little further south is Himarë, which feels much more like a lived-in town rather than just a resort. It's got a great promenade where everyone goes for a xhiro (an evening stroll) as the sun sets. I personally love Himarë because it feels authentic. You'll see grandmothers in black dresses sitting on their porches while backpackers walk by with surfboards. Plus, the old town of Himarë, perched way up on the hill, is a maze of crumbling stone walls and blooming bougainvillea that's perfect for getting lost in for an hour.
The "Maldives of Europe" (and the crowds)
Then there's Ksamil. If you've spent any time on social media lately, you've probably seen photos of these tiny islands and turquoise water labeled as the "Maldives of Europe." It's stunning, no doubt about it. The water is shallow, the sand is white, and you can swim or boat out to the little uninhabited islands just offshore.
But here's the thing—because it's so famous now, Ksamil gets packed. If you go in August, you'll be elbow-to-elbow with people, and the music from the beach clubs can be a bit much. If you can swing it, try to visit in June or September. The weather is still perfect, but you actually have room to breathe. And honestly, while Ksamil is the poster child for the albanian riviera, some of the smaller, harder-to-reach beaches like Gjipe or Gjiri i Akuariumit are way more magical because you have to hike or take a boat to get to them.
Eating like a local
One of the best things about this part of the world is the food. It's a mix of Italian, Greek, and traditional Albanian influences. Since you're right on the water, the seafood is obviously the star. You can get a plate of grilled octopus or shrimp pasta for what you'd pay for a sandwich back home.
But don't skip the local stuff. You have to try byrek—it's a flaky pastry filled with spinach, cheese, or meat, and it's the ultimate beach snack. There's also tavë kosi, which is lamb baked with rice and a yogurt sauce, though that might be a bit heavy for a 35-degree day. And the olives! The olives along the albanian riviera are huge, salty, and grown right there on the hillsides you're driving through. Wash it all down with a cold Birra Korça or some raki if you're feeling brave (just don't plan on driving anywhere after the raki).
Why it feels different here
There's an energy in Albania that you don't get in more "polished" tourist destinations. It's a bit chaotic. You might be driving down a coastal road and have to slam on the brakes because a herd of goats decided to cross. You'll see bunkers from the Cold War era still sitting on the beaches, some of them painted like giant mushrooms or turned into tiny cafes.
The people are incredibly hospitable, too. It's not uncommon for a local tavern owner to sit down at your table and offer you a glass of homemade wine just because they're happy you're visiting their country. There's a genuine sense of pride that people are finally discovering the beauty of the albanian riviera after the country was closed off from the world for so many decades.
A few things to keep in mind
If you're planning a trip, there are a couple of practical bits to know. First, cash is king. While more places in the bigger towns are starting to take cards, you'll definitely need Albanian Lek for smaller cafes, guesthouses, and market stalls. Second, don't expect Swiss-level infrastructure. The roads are mostly good, but they can be narrow and the local driving style is let's call it "adventurous."
Also, don't just stick to the beach. Take a morning to head into the hills and visit some of the old monasteries or the ruins of Butrint. Butrint is a UNESCO World Heritage site near Sarandë, and it's a crazy mix of Greek, Roman, and Byzantine ruins all tucked away in a forest. It's a nice break from the sun and gives you a bit of perspective on how many different empires have fought over this beautiful piece of land.
Wrapping it up
At the end of the day, the albanian riviera isn't for people who want a perfectly curated, luxury-resort-only experience. It's for people who want a bit of adventure with their sunshine. It's for people who don't mind a little dust on their rental car or a few goats on the road if it means they get to swim in water that looks like liquid sapphire. It's raw, it's beautiful, and it's easily one of the coolest places left in Europe to just disappear for a week or two. If you haven't been yet, just go. You won't regret it.